one of the most appreciated designs in menswear, a classic on it's own, and always a statement piece: the balmacaan coat.
said to have its origin from the Scottish highlands, the loose fitting yet very refined cut of the coat has been a menswear staple for decades.
so what makes a 'balmacaan' a 'balmacaan'?
there are three key design elements in a balmacaan that can be considered a signature detail:
the collar: it has a high neck line on the back of the collar, and sits lower in the front. a very distinct feature that, when buttoned up to the top, gives a sophisticated, noble look to it.
the raglan sleeve: the raglan sleeve dates back to the crimean war, specifically in a cape worn by general Raglan. after injuring his right hand, he was no longer able to quickly put on a coat with a set-in sleeve. a new pattern was designed, born and implemented: the raglan sleeve. based on a cape-like fitting, the raglan sleeve gives an easier and more comfortable wear in the armhole when putting on the coat. diagonally transitioning from the collar to the lower sleeve, it cuts a very elegant silhouette with plenty of freedom of movement. in addition, the raglan sleeve design makes a men coat sit very classy on woman as well as it follows the body more natural.
the fly front: designed with the top button exposed, the balmacaan coat shows a covered button panel known as the 'fly'. creating a very minimalist, sophisticated look, the fly front is a key detail in original balmacaan coats.
it is not easy to find a balmacaan coat these days that exceeds expectations. the design created by kazuyuki kumagai of calmlence does exactly that: an elevated version of the classic balmacaan.
what sets the calmlence balmacaan coat apart from many others is not only the mind-blowing jacquard fabric developed for it, but also the meticulous attention to detail in the construction, trims and cut.
considering the tailoring background of designer kazuyuki kumagai, it comes as no surprise that the coat has a fit and feeling to it which is rarely found in outerwear these days.
the lofty yet heavily structured jacquard fabric, made out of a cotton/wool/linen fabric woven on a jacquard loom initially designed for car seating fabrics, creates such a high level of character that it makes this one of the most unique balmacaan coats I've ever seen.
the volume in the coat design by calmlence is best experienced when putting on the coat. spacious yet following the body. solid weight on the fabric, yet a light drape on the body.
timeless, like the original.
in our quest to find rare evergreens, this refined edition of the balmacaan coat gives us a piece that is designed for longevity. not only in material, but in visual appeal and appreciation as well.