on dobby cloth
one of the most appealing weaves, dobby. for those drawn to texture, the look and feel of dobby cloth is often very satisfying.
woven on specialized dobby looms, these looms are equipped with a special dobby attachment that lifts and lowers specific warp threads in programmed sequences.
letting the threads sit lifted or lowered is what creates that specific texture, which over time can develop into a beautiful worn-in fabric.
often seen in geometric patterns, the dobby cloth can have checks, diamonds, grid structures, dots. all woven directly into the fabric instead of being printed.
in working with Copenhagen-based studio HANSEN GARMENTS, we're often very fortunate at STORE DU NORD.
founder and designer Åse has excellent taste in selecting fabrics for her work and is a keen admirer of natural fibers with natural dyes.
in recent new styles that have arrived, a wonderful dobby cloth dyed in natural indigo has been put to use in chore jackets, wide cut trousers and shirts.
all made and dyed in Japan.
cotton is by far the most popular choice for dobby woven cloth.
the high breathability and natural stiffness allow for the geometric patterns to hold well.
this is what we also see in the range of styles presented by HANSEN GARMENTS this season.
in addition, and a personal preference, a dobby cloth is strong yet flexible. it wears more relaxed than, for instance, a moleskin cloth or a canvas cotton.
somewhat resembling sashiko fabrics, as seen in martial arts uniforms, it moves along with the user.
it's durable yet flowing.
and over time, as with all natural fibers and dyes, it will develop a beautiful patina.
worn-in well.
embracing textural contrast, the changing of warp and weft in the dobby fabrics create a superior tactile feel, yet subtle in appearance.